In the new publication Gourmet Glasgow by Alan Tomkins, a fine publication, Gerry Sharkey – who is the popular head chef at the Holiday Inn here – provides a couple of the recipes. Both dishes look delicious and yet not beyond the capabilities of readers not possessed of a TV chef’s back-up crew and personal shoppers. Both dishes could appear on the menu at La Bonne Auberge for the food here is fresh, acclaimed, and not beyond the reach of most.

The Guide was in a party of three who dined in November 2003 at the Paris bistro-style restaurant located on the ground floor of the hotel, which itself sits at a corner just next to the city’s Royal Concert Hall. We met for a pre-dinner drink in the Bar area on a lively Friday night. The place was full of life, and staff, dressed in black with long white French aprons, darted to and fro keeping everyone happy. One of the trio was a much-travelled Monsignor of the church; the second was a senior manager at one the country’s biggest food producers; the third was your reviewer, anxious as ever at having made a recommendation for this fussy pair. For, although the restaurant holds an AA rosette, one would not like to be condemned by a hungry monk and an unsatisfied accountant at one and the same time. What would the verdict be?
We sipped The Glenlivet on the rocks and relaxed. Background music was suitably urbane, My kinda town, even if the city acclaimed in song was on the wrong side of The Pond. Paris may have been quiet this year, the fallout of the fall out with America, but here in Paris, Glasgow, things were going with a swing. The reverend crossed himself and ordered another dram, whilst the bean counter counted his beans and decided to throw caution to the wind, too. I nodded to the waitress, like an old hand at an auction. And then it was time to eat. L’Orangerie is a conservatory-style dining area to the left of the bar, but we were shown through to La Bonne Auberge proper and into a generous round booth at the rear.

Open brickwork, hanging baskets, bistro tables and chairs, French objets and bric-a-brac, wrought ironwork, extremely attentive staff: all helped create an easy-going atmosphere. Relaxing and fun but serious courtesy and an interesting Carte. We at Scotland’s own hotel guide can tell you that many hotels would give their credit card-swiping right arm to have their restaurant as busy as this at 10pm on an ordinary Friday night in November.

There is a prix fixe menu available from 5pm – ideal for pre-theatre, and there are a few of these establishments nearby. Two courses for £14.95. (In fact there was a voucher in my room which would have entitled us to a 2-course dinner and a small glass of house wine for a remarkable £11.95 each.) However, we went for the main menu’s flexibility and admired the simple price structure: all starters £5; fish, vegetarian and most other main courses £14.45; grills added a supplement of between £2.95 and £4.95; sides all came in at £1.75.
From the selection of 6 starters we opted for: Succulent Greenland Prawns with a Sweet Pimento and Lemon Cream Cheese, for our spiritual advisor; Beef and Ginger Tea with Shitake Mushrooms, Spring Onions and Water Chestnuts for the food industry magnate; and Marinated Lamb Loin with Avocado, Apple Rilettes and (the unaccountably-named) Mint Jizz for the man with the little black notebook. Other starters included melon, paté and cheese ravioli.

“This has almost a Turkish feel to it”, said the minister, “very nice indeed”. All starters came attractively presented on white plates, everything in the modern fashion. The prawns were moulded into a thick circle, topped with mousse and ringed with chopped herbs and tomato pimento. The soup, tasted by us all, was a great success: “It doesn’t taste Chinese – it’s more interesting, very warming too”, said souperman. My lamb, which I was advised helpfully was a cold starter, was generous in quantity and very tasty: sitting on a roundel of avocado were half a dozen small oval cuts of mustard and herb-pressed lamb fillet. Off to a good start, then.

We selected a bottle of Chablis to accompany the meal. “Austere and dry” said the wine list. How could we resist such a deathless endorsement? In fact it was crisp and refreshing, and served with a flourish.

Vicar was in a mood for blood so opted for the Rib Eye Steak. Manager was in a mood for seafood so selected Tempura King Prawns with Braised Leek and Sweet Chilli Sauce and Salad. Writer was sold the Dish of the Day, described faultlessly by our server and later written down as an aide to memory: Supreme of Guinea Fowl with Puy Lentil, Panchetta and Pistachio Risotto, and Onion Purée, Kumquat and Apple Chutney, and Red Wine Latte. Quite a billing for a wee guinea fowl. So – how did it all go?

The steak was “absolutely perfect” – a large portion for a large man, soft, yielding, moist. The prawns were, once augmented by a larger helping of the dip, considered “fine, although perhaps more of a starter dish”. The game bird was comfort food indeed: the whole dish sounded a bit OTT but in fact the chef had shown admirable restraint in presentation. The sauce was a delight, the tiny studs of swede and the kumquat flavours all co-ordinating well. A tiny guinea fowl chipolata sausage was a nice touch. The whole was interesting and substantial – the bird itself, French poultry as with much of the best, was moist and roasty-topped.

We didn’t need dessert but Warm Pear and Frangipane Tart with Peach Ice Cream, and also Chocolate Truffle Mousseline with Blood Orange Ice Cream both melted away delectably. Dinner came to around £20 a head, excluding wine. Unarguable value. And very toothsome. The sheer number of people who come through these doors testify that La Bonne Auberge is certainly on any Glasgow gourmet’s trail. Lunch and all-day light snacks are available. Croque Madame, anyone? How about Wild Boar Sausages with Peppercorn Sauce and Mash? Spiced Salmon Fillet with Crispy Caesar Salad?

HotelReview™ Scotland has awarded 3 Scottish FoodHonors™ for 2004, our recognition for fine dining. To the hotel we have also awarded our SpecialHonor™ citing the success that they have made of an hotel restaurant operation. Here, it is a pleasure to report fine dining without too much expense and in an informal yet still special environment.

Private dining and conferences

Private dining is becoming ever-more popular and the Holiday Inn and La Bonne Auberge can together offer an enjoyable experience in their Pigalle Room which seats up to 8 diners. The hotel can also cater for up to 100 in the two Montmartre Suites, and has a conference pack available on request.

Special private dining evenings - for a maximum of just 8 tables - under the title Look who’s talking have featured, or will feature, guests like Kate Adie, John Simpson, Nick Faldo and Mervyn Bragg. Latest info is at the La Bonne Auberge website - see link at top of Review.
At the Guide, if we know anything at all, we know that it is the people who make the difference, who make a place consistent. Chefs tell us all the gossip. Glasgow-born Gerry is a fine man to have at the helm here; his interest in education ensures that his brigade is capable and kept keen. “The food is fairly modern – and you can, I think, see the ‘Frenchness’ in it!” he says. “I’m about to head off for Aberdeenshire and Banffshire, with a couple of the team, to choose some local suppliers, and I want the chefs to know – as well as the customers – where their food is coming from. We have great sources of produce here in Scotland, and I’d like there to be even more traceability from farm to plate.”

Hotel Review Scotland - www.hotelreviewscotland.com